Loose Gowns and Spanish Surcoats

	Loose Gowns & Spanish Surcoats
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These links illustrate the variations in decoration, cut, and style of these 16th century women's overgarments. See also research & re-creations by Rosalind Delamere, Isobel Bedingfield, Dianora Salviati, Catherine Grace Fitzlewis, Fru Aleydis, Lynn McMasters, Genevieve d'Aquitaine, Bess Darnley, Drea de' Pellegrini, Isabella de Boyce, Simbelmyne, Melanie Schuessler, and Simone Hindin. Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan by Hans Holbein the Younger, 1538 A woman by Lucas Cranach the Younger Lady Dacre by Hans Eworth, 1540 Catherine Parr, c. 1545 Electoress Dorothea, aged 25 by Hans Besser, 1545 Eleanor of Toledo by Agnolo Bronzino, c. 1550 An unknown lady by Agnolo Bronzino, c. 1550 Catherine of Austria by Cristovano Lopes, c. 1550 Countess Livia da Porto Thiene and her daughter Porzia by Paolo Veronese, c. 1551 Herzogin Anna von Sachsen, 1551 Elizabeth Talbot, Countess of Shrewsbury (Bess of Hardwick), 1550s Catherine of Austria, Queen of Portugal by Antonio Mor, c. 1552 Archduchess Anna by Hans Mielich, 1556 An unknown lady by Hans Eworth, 1557 Anne, Lady Penruddocke by Hans Eworth, 1557 Elizabeth FitzGerald, Countess of Lincoln by Steven van der Muelen, 1560 Portrait of an unknown French noblewoman, 1560 Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1565 Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1565 Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1570 Margaret Audley, Duchess of Norfolk by Hans Eworth, 1562 Portrait of a woman, probably Catherine Carey, Lady Knollys by Steven van der Meulen, 1562 The Gripsholm Portrait, 1563 Portrait of a Lady of the Wentworth Family (Probably Jane Cheyne) by Hans Eworth, 1563 Elizabeth Roydon, Lady Golding by Hans Eworth, 1563 Katherine Knollys, née Carey, c. 1568 Anne Fernely by Anthonis Mor van Dashorst, 1564 Mildred Cooke, Lady Burghley, c. 1565 An unknown lady by Hans Eworth, c. 1565-1568 Theophila, wife of the 3rd Earl of Worcester, 1567 Mary Hill, Mrs. Mackwillian, 1567 Anne Browne, Lady Petre, 1567 An unknown lady, 1567 Fête at Bermondsey by Joris Hoefnagel, 1569 The Countess of Warwick, c. 1569 An unknown girl, 1569 English townswomen by Lucas de Heere, 1570 An unknown lady by François Quesnel, c. 1570 Fols. 97r, 98r, 99r, 100r, and 100v (pattern), A Milanese Tailor's Handbook, 1570s Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex, c. 1570-1574 Woman with a lap dog, c. 1575-1600 A lady by Adriaen Thomasz Key A woman by Frans Pourbus the Elder Ein Teutsche Fürstin, Ein Sächsische Edelfraw, Ein Geschlechterin zu Augspurg, Eins gemeinen Burgers Fraw zu Augspurg, Ein andechtige Fraw zu Augspurg, Ein Braut zu Franckfurt von den Geschlechterin, Ein Geschlechterin von Nürnberg, Ein Edle Matron zu Leon, Ein Edelfraw von Pariß, Ein Edle Fraw von Ferrar, Die Hertzogin von Venedig, et al., Im Frauwenzimmer Wirt vermeldt von allerly schönen Kleidungen, 1586 A loose gown (GNM T 3617/3618), c. 1586-1600 The Selwyn Brasses from Walton-on Thames church, c. 1587 Catherine van Damme, wife of François de Groote by Frans Pourbus the Younger, 1591 Portraits by the Brunswick-Lüneburg Court miniaturist (c. 1595 unless otherwise noted): Sophia, second wife of George Frederick, Margraf of Brandenburg-Ansbach Dorothea, wife of Charles Birkenfeld, Count Palatine of the Rhine Clara, wife of William, Count of Schwartzburg-Blankenburg Anna, wife of John Casimir, Duke of Saxe-Coburg Elizabeth, first wife of George Frederick, Margrave of Brandenburg Sophia, Duchess of Saxe-Altenburg Anna, Electress of Saxony Elizabeth, third wife of John George, Elector of Brandenburg Catherine, wife of Joachim Frederick, Elector of Brandenburg Emilie, Pfalzgräfin of Simmern, c. 1593-1597 Anna, Duchess of Pfalz-Neuburg, c. 1593-1597 Catherine Sophia, Pfalzgräfin of Zweibrücken, c. 1593-1597 Ursula, Duchess of Württemberg, c. 1593-1597 A lady by Gortzius Geldorp, 1597 Truijke Verbeeck by Frans Pourbus the Younger, 1597 Hanna Parolini Guicciardini by Agostino Caracci, 1598 Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria with her Dwarf by Frans Pourbus the Younger, c. 1599 Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria by Frans Pourbus the Younger, before 1605 A brocaded silk gown (V&A 189-1900), c. 1600-1615 The Kermesse of St. George

Loose Gowns & Spanish Surcoats

Patterns of Fashion: The Cut and Construction of Clothes for Men and Women, C.1560-1620

The Tudor Tailor: Reconstructing Sixteenth-Century Dress

Late Elizabethan Closed Loose Gown, Kirtle and Sleeves Pattern by Reconstructing History

Loose Gowns Pattern by Reconstructing History

Elizabethan Comfort Kirtle Pattern by Margo Anderson

These links illustrate the variations in decoration, cut, and style of these 16th century women's overgarments.

See also research & re-creations by Rosalind Delamere, Isobel Bedingfield, Dianora Salviati, Catherine Grace Fitzlewis, Fru Aleydis, Lynn McMasters, Genevieve d'Aquitaine, Bess Darnley, Drea de' Pellegrini, Isabella de Boyce, Simbelmyne, Melanie Schuessler, and Simone Hindin.

Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan by Hans Holbein the Younger, 1538
A woman by Lucas Cranach the Younger
Lady Dacre by Hans Eworth, 1540
Catherine Parr, c. 1545
Electoress Dorothea, aged 25 by Hans Besser, 1545
Eleanor of Toledo by Agnolo Bronzino, c. 1550
An unknown lady by Agnolo Bronzino, c. 1550
Catherine of Austria by Cristovano Lopes, c. 1550
Countess Livia da Porto Thiene and her daughter Porzia by Paolo Veronese, c. 1551
Herzogin Anna von Sachsen, 1551
Elizabeth Talbot, Countess of Shrewsbury (Bess of Hardwick), 1550s
Catherine of Austria, Queen of Portugal by Antonio Mor, c. 1552
Archduchess Anna by Hans Mielich, 1556
An unknown lady by Hans Eworth, 1557
Anne, Lady Penruddocke by Hans Eworth, 1557
Elizabeth FitzGerald, Countess of Lincoln by Steven van der Muelen, 1560
Portrait of an unknown French noblewoman, 1560
Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1565
Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1565
Elizabeth I, c. 1560-1570
Margaret Audley, Duchess of Norfolk by Hans Eworth, 1562
Portrait of a woman, probably Catherine Carey, Lady Knollys by Steven van der Meulen, 1562
The Gripsholm Portrait, 1563
Portrait of a Lady of the Wentworth Family (Probably Jane Cheyne) by Hans Eworth, 1563
Elizabeth Roydon, Lady Golding by Hans Eworth, 1563
Katherine Knollys, née Carey, c. 1568
Anne Fernely by Anthonis Mor van Dashorst, 1564
Mildred Cooke, Lady Burghley, c. 1565
An unknown lady by Hans Eworth, c. 1565-1568
Theophila, wife of the 3rd Earl of Worcester, 1567
Mary Hill, Mrs. Mackwillian, 1567
Anne Browne, Lady Petre, 1567
An unknown lady, 1567
Fête at Bermondsey by Joris Hoefnagel, 1569
The Countess of Warwick, c. 1569
An unknown girl, 1569
English townswomen by Lucas de Heere, 1570
An unknown lady by François Quesnel, c. 1570
Fols. 97r, 98r, 99r, 100r, and 100v (pattern), A Milanese Tailor's Handbook, 1570s
Frances Sidney, Countess of Sussex, c. 1570-1574
Woman with a lap dog, c. 1575-1600
A lady by Adriaen Thomasz Key
A woman by Frans Pourbus the Elder
Ein Teutsche Fürstin, Ein Sächsische Edelfraw, Ein Geschlechterin zu Augspurg, Eins gemeinen Burgers Fraw zu Augspurg, Ein andechtige Fraw zu Augspurg, Ein Braut zu Franckfurt von den Geschlechterin, Ein Geschlechterin von Nürnberg, Ein Edle Matron zu Leon, Ein Edelfraw von Pariß, Ein Edle Fraw von Ferrar, Die Hertzogin von Venedig, et al., Im Frauwenzimmer Wirt vermeldt von allerly schönen Kleidungen, 1586
A loose gown (GNM T 3617/3618), c. 1586-1600
The Selwyn Brasses from Walton-on Thames church, c. 1587
Catherine van Damme, wife of François de Groote by Frans Pourbus the Younger, 1591

Portraits by the Brunswick-Lüneburg Court miniaturist (c. 1595 unless otherwise noted):

A lady by Gortzius Geldorp, 1597
Truijke Verbeeck by Frans Pourbus the Younger, 1597
Hanna Parolini Guicciardini by Agostino Caracci, 1598
Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria with her Dwarf by Frans Pourbus the Younger, c. 1599
Isabella Clara Eugenia of Austria by Frans Pourbus the Younger, before 1605
A brocaded silk gown (V&A 189-1900), c. 1600-1615
The Kermesse of St. George