|
|
The focus of this linkspage is on cloaks in secular contexts (rather than including biblical mantles, ecclesiastical copes, etc.). For information on making cloaks, see these links.
I've attempted to organize these by type, but the cloak taxonomy below is my own invention, and may not reflect standard thought on the subject.
There are very few examples of hooded cloaks; just two women wearing hooded black cloaks in the Manesse Codex (the only black cloaks in the manuscript). There are some cloaks worn with separate hoods, either over or under the cloak.
BUTTON-SHOULDER CLOAK: A style of cloak (apparently exclusively worn by men) closed on the right shoulder, usually with buttons. This style of cloak seems to be the descendant of the Greek chlamys. This seems to be the source imagery for the "three-quarter" cloaks seen in re-enactment, although an extant example (the Bocksten Man's cloak) is a half-circle. Some examples also have dagged edges.
- Bocksten Man's cloak, 14th century
- William of Hatfield, d. 1348
- Lionel, Duke of Clarence, d. 1364
- Edward, Prince of Wales, d. 1376
- The allegory of the harp, Dit de la harpe (BNF Fr. 1584, fol. 175v), c. 1372-1377
- Wool merchant, c. 1400
- The alphins (fol. 14v), the rooks (fol. 22v), and the fourth pawn (fol. 38v) in the Liber de Moribus hominum (BNF Fr. 1166), end of the 14th century or beginning of the 15th century
- The north wind, Tacuinum Sanitatis (BNF Latin 9333, fol. 56v), 15th century
- Tacuinum Sanitatis, 15th century, BNF Nouvelle acquisition latine 1673: illustrations depicting red wine (fol. 77), blushing (fol. 86v), an apothecary (fol. 87v), and a conversation among men (fol. 90)
- Edmund, Duke of York, d. 1402
- Detail from the November fresco at Castello Buonconsiglio, c. 1405-1410
- William Chichele, c. 1425
- A judge mocked by Maso del Saggio, in The Decameron (BNF Fr. 239, fol. 221), second quarter of the 15th century
- Detail from St. Joseph on an altarpiece at the Cloister of St. Klara at Freising, c. 1430-1435; good detail of the buttons
- John Martyn, c. 1436
- The fish-miracle of St. Ulrich and the messenger gives the fish to the duke in Scenes from the Life of St. Ulrich, 1450-1455
- Lancelot with the hermit, in the Quest of the Holy Grail (BNF Fr. 116, fol. 634), 15th century
MANTLES: A style of cloak with closure at center front, usually by means of a cord (or, in some descriptions, a string of pearls) attached to metal mounts ("ouches"?) attached to the edge of the cloak along both sides of the chest. This style of cloak is the only style which appears on women; some men wear it as well, especially in ceremonial contexts. This seems to be the source for the "half-circle" cloaks seen in re-enactment. (Note the prevalence of the pose with one hand, usually the right hand, on the cord, or the thumb or fingers entwined in the cord, especially in the examples from the 12th to early 14th centuries. See Courtly Culture: Literature and Society in the High Middle Ages by Joachim Bumke for a discussion of this "knightly" pose.)
- Robert Consul, d. 1147
- Uta (see detail) and Reglindis at Naumberg Cathedral, c. 1250
- Fitzalan lady, c. 1300
- The Manesse Codex, c. 1300-1330: illustrations of Kaiser Heinrich, Herr Gottfried von Neifen, Herr Rudolf von Rotenburg, Der von Krenberg, Herr Dietmar von Ast, Herr Heinrich von Morungen, Herr Reinmar der Alte, Herr Birkart von Hohenfels, Der Burggraf von Rietenburg, Herr Meinloh von Sevelingen, Von Singenberg, Truchse zu St. Gallen, Herr Wilhelm von Heinzenburg, Der von Johansdorf, Herr Engelhardt von Adelnburg, Die Winsbekin, Klingsor von Ungarland, Herr Hug von Werbenwag, Von Stadegge, Herr Brunwart von Augheim, Der Tannhuser, Herr Neidhart, Der Hardegger, Von Wengen, Der Burggraf von Regensburg, Von Obernburg, Bruder Wernher, Meister Johannes Hadlaub, and Spervogel
- Alice Clopton, c. 1325
- St. Joachim and St. Anne from the Taymouth Hours (British Library, Yates Thompson 13, fol. 57v), c. 1325-1335
- Margaret, Lady Cobham, d. 1385
- Margaret, Baroness Willoughby d'Eresby, d. 1391
- Eleanor Bohun, Duchess of Gloucester, d. 1399
- Wife of a wool merchant, c. 1400
- The king and the queen in the Liber de Moribus hominum (BNF Fr. 1166), end of the 14th century or beginning of the 15th century
- Margaret Whatton, Lady Bagot, c. 1407
- Thomas Fitzalan, d. 1416
- Beatrice Chichele, c. 1425
- Anne Martyn, c. 1436
- Joan Skerne, c. 1437
- Griselda marries Gualteri di Saluzzo in The Decameron (BNF Fr. 239, fol. 295), 15th century
- Marion Smith, c. 1480
- A queen from Jacques de Cessoles' Liber de Moribus hominum from 1480-1485 (BNF fr. 2000)
- January in the Great Book of Hours of Anne of Brittany, c. 1500-1508
- Several different styles of cloaks and mantles depicted in the Album Amicorum of a German Soldier, 1595, including La consorte del Castelan di Roma, le Ceuallier de Angleterre an son habit de lordre (an English Knight of the Garter), and a man in a short cloak
"ROYAL" CLOAK: I'm still deciding whether I want to include these as a category. Frequently has a fur capelet (cowl?) over a fur-lined cloak (with apparent opening on the right-hand side), usually also fur-lined. Fur is frequently ermine. Seems to appear only on men; in the 15th century, this evolves into a ceremonial-only garment for kings and noblemen. It may, in that way, be the men's equivalent of the sideless surcoat.
OTHER STUFF: These are clearly cloaks -- but don't seem to fall into any of the categories described above.
|
