18th Century Women’s Hats
Last updated: Oct 2, 2024
This primarily deals with broad hats, especially straw hats. (Calashes, bonnets, and caps can be found elsewhere on this site.)
- Williamsburg 1969-265,1, “woven in an intricate pattern of linked oval medallions enclosed in diamond lozenges which converge at center crown to form a five-pointed star,” worn in England c. 1675-1725
- Met 1998.230, wool and silk, Germany, c. 1720-1750
- Met 2006.588, silk (covered straw hat?), Italy, c. 1720-1750
- MFA 43.1831 and MFA 43.1835, painted straw bergère hats, Switzerland, c. 1730-1800
- Williamsburg 1953-868, horsehair and bast fiber, England, 1745-1775
- LACMA M.82.8.8, a bergére in silk, wood, paper, and silk tulle, England, c. 1750
- Royal Albert Memorial Museum 28/1969, a bergere hat made of paper with a silk lining, ribbon, and lace trim, England, c. 1750
- Met C.I.69.15.1, straw bergére, Britain
- MFA 48.1833, straw bergère with straw appliqué, France
- MFA 43.1613, silk hat trimmed with straw appliqué, France (?)
- Met 13.49.35, Britain
- National Trust 1349841, chip hat with cotton print lining, c. 1750-1760
- V&A T.90-2003, Britain, c. 1750-1770; “feathers of common origin, such as those from cocks or guinea fowl, dyed in a variety of colours for a vivid effect.” A similar hat is worn by a girl in V&A 833-1873 (“Head of a Girl Wearing a White Hat” by William Hoare) and A School for Girls by Philip Mercier.
- V&A 1750-1774, England, c. 1750-1774: “Woman’s hat of woven straw, covered with black silk taffeta and lined with white silk. The sides of the crown are of black ribbed silk.”
- MFA 38.1328, English or French straw hat, c. 1750-1775
- Met 1984.140, raffia hat trimmed with silk, Britain, c. 1760; good detail of the inside of the hat, where the ribbons are attached
- Colonial Williamsburg 2018-227, a silk-covered straw hat, Europe/England, c. 1760s; “Wide brimmed hat with small, shallow crown of plaited straw. The hat top has been covered in a pattern woven red silk with small floral buds and circles halved by two different patterns within the shape resembling stylized acorns in groups of three. At the crown, the silk appears to have been gathered and sewn at the top, after which a circular 4.25 inch piece of the same silk was attached with the raw edges turned under to create the finished appearance. Around the perimeter of the hat crown is a length of cream silk plain woven ribbon gathered and made into 10 loops with a bow at back. The underside of the hat is covered in a cream plain woven silk. The interior crown, the construction work is exposed, showing the cream silk cut into eight points and adhered to the straw. This was probably covered with an additional circle of silk to conceal the construction details and provide a cleaner, more finished final product. At either side of the interior crown are a pair of 2 inch wide plain woven cream silk ties. Each ribbon measures 15 inches long but may have been shortened over time.”
- V&A T.62-1934, “Straw hat trimmed with figured silk and lace, made in England, 1760s.”
- V&A 158-1865, Italy or England, 1760s; “embroidered with straw-work flowers on crown and around brim; wreath of straw flowers around crown”
- Met 1997.369, made of paper, straw, silk, and linen, Britain, c. 1760-1770
- Williamsburg 1970-104, England, silk over straw, c. 1760-1785
- Mint 2006.10A-B, a silk velvet hat with an ostrich plume and a cut steel hat pin, c. 1770
- V&A 157-1865, straw hat trimmed with straw sheet and straw thread appliqué around the edge of the brim and crown, made in Great Britain or Italy, c. 1775-1800
- Met 2009.300.5509, cotton, silk, and linen, European, c. 1780
- MFA 99.664.38, straw hat covered in silk with cotton net trim, American, late 18th century to early 19th century
Dutch women’s straw hats
Note the use of fabric (often chintz) lining on the interior only, and (in some cases) a D-shape to the brim.
- Christie’s Lot 320, Sale 5422, a fine straw and chintz hat, D-shaped chipstraw lined with a red chintz print and wrapping over to the brim
- Met C.I.45.2
- V&A IS.23-1976, a piece of chintz used to line a wide-brimmed straw hat worn by the women of Friesland
- Meg Andrews 7141, a straw hat lined with blue silk brocade, Zeeland, c. 1780
- Meg Andrews 7120, a straw hat lined with chintz, Zeeland, 1780s
Depictions of 18th century women’s straw hats
This is just intended as a survey, rather than a complete list of every example possible; it provides further ideas for shape and ornamentation.
- The Northern Laſs, c. 1700-1725
- Evelyn Byrd, c. 1725-1726
- Girl with pigeons by Antoine Pesne, 1728
- Portrait of three children, c. 1730
- Detail from Moll Hackabout arrives in London by William Hogarth, 1731-1732
- A woman with a basket of grapes, c. 1732-1765
- Portrait of a woman in a landscape, 1735
- Plenty, c. 1735-1767
- The Elements: Earth, c. 1736-1775
- Covent Garden Market by Balthazar Nebot, 1737 (Tate/Guildhall/Christie’s)
- Conversation in a park by Thomas Gainsborough, c. 1740
- Lady Sophia and Lady Charlotte Fermor by Thomas Bardwell
- Margaret 'Peg' Woffington by Philippe Mercier, 1740s
- A couple seated on a garden bench by Joseph Highmore, c. 1740-1750
- From Joseph Highmore’s paintings for Pamela, c. 1743-1744: Pamela shows Mr Williams a hiding place for her letters, Pamela leaves Mr B’s house in Bedfordshire
- The Brockman family at Beachborough by Edward Haytley, c. 1744-1746
- Miss Baldwin, c. 1744-1798
- Young Woman With Verbena (Earth) by Philippe Mercier
- Lucy Ebberton by George Knapton, c. 1745-1750
- Katharine Countess of Lincoln, c. 1746-1766
- Spilletta, c. 1746-1766
- Mr. and Mrs. Andrews by Thomas Gainsborough, 1748-1749
- Portrait of a woman in a straw hat by Christian Wilhelm Ernst Dietrich, mid-18th century
- The Reaper (Allegory of Summer) by Christian Wilhelm Ernst Dietrich
- The Gravenor Family by Thomas Gainsborough, c. 1752-1754
- Eleanor Frances Dixie by Henry Pickering, c. 1753
- Young Woman With Roses (Spring) by Philippe Mercier, before 1755
- Catherine, Lady Chambers by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1756
- Portrait of a young woman by Frans van der Mijn, 1756
- Portrait of a lady by Frans van der Mijn
- Will your Honour buy a Sweet Nosegay or a Memorandum Book (Twelve London Cries by Paul Sandby), 1760
- The Press Gang by John Collet
- Portrait of a Girl with a Patch Box by Philippe Mercier, 1760
- Miss Murray, c. 1760-1775
- High Life Below Stairs by John Collet, 1763
- Mrs. Nathaniel Allen (Sarah Sargent) by John Singleton Copley, c. 1763
- Hannah Loring by John Singleton Copley, 1763
- Miss Nelly O’Brien by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c. 1762-1764
- Mary, Countess of Howe by Thomas Gainsborough, 1764
- The Return from the Fair by Edward Penny, 1765
- Drawing of a young woman by Catherine Louise de Saint-Aubin, 1764
- Sarah, Lady Pollington, later Countess of Mexborough, mid-1760s
- Mrs. Samuel Barrett (Mary Clarke) by John Singleton Copley, c. 1765-1770
- A girl singing ballads by Henry Robert Morland, c. 1765-82
- Madame Bergeret by François Boucher, c. 1766
- Betty Munro, c. 1766-1783
- Mrs. Elizabeth Brownrigg, 1767
- Miss W, The Modern Lucretia (Sarah Woodcock), c. 1767-1783
- The Female Bruisers by John Collet, 1768
- The Pybus family by Nathaniel Dance, c. 1769
- Miss Mary Hickey by Sir Joshua Reynolds, 1770
- Mrs. Oswald by Johann Joseph Zoffany, c. 1770
- Portrait of a lady sewing by Daniel Nikolaus Chodowiecki
- The Market Girl, c. 1770s
- Wantonness Mask'd, 1771
- A Scene in Covent Garden, Or the Modern Bloods Kicking up a Dust, 1772
- The Contented Cobler, 1772
- Rural Happiness, Health, Felicity, and Contentment, 1773
- The Enraged Macaroni, 1773
- The Spirit is Willing but the Flesh is Weak, 1773
- Miss Returning from a Visit, or Thomas Fording a Brook with his Mistress
- The Colmore Family by Johann Joseph Zoffany
- Twelve fashionable Head Dresses of 1775 from The Ladies Own Memorandum Book
- Sophia (Vicar of Wakefield), 1776
- The sailor’s present, or, The jealous clown by John Collet, 1778
- The Manchester hero, or, Arts yield to arms by John Collet, 1778
- The studious beauty, 1778
- Catherine Langdale by Henry Walton
- Girl buying a ballad by Henry Walton, 1778
- The pretty maid buying a love song, 1779
- The old ballad-singer, 1779
- Marie Emilie Cuivilliers, née Boucher by Alexander Roslin, 1779
- The Sharp Family by Johan Joseph Zoffany, 1779-1781
- The wife at confession to the husband in disguise, 1780
- Portrait of an unknown woman by George Engleheart, 1780s
- A lady and her children relieving a cottager by William Redmore Bigg, 1781
- A man of war, towing a frigate into harbour, 1781 or later
- An English man of war taking a French privateer, 1781
- Elisabeth Philippine Marie Hélène de France by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1782
- Self-portrait in a straw hat by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, after 1782
- Emma Hart, later Lady Hamilton, in a Straw Hat by George Romney, c. 1782-1794
- Rural life, 1783
- Marie Antoinette by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1783
- Catherine (Brouncker) Adye, later Catherine Willett by George Romney, 1784-1785
- Antoinette-Elisabeth-Marie d’Aguesseau, Countess de Ségur by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1785
- The Vicomtesse de Vaudreuil by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1785
- Self-Portrait with Two Pupils, Mademoiselle Marie Gabrielle Capet and Mademoiselle Carreaux de Rosemond by Adélaïde Labille-Guiard, 1785
- Lady Sheffield by Thomas Gainsborough, 1785-1786
- Anne Bingham by Joshua Reynolds, 1786 (also The Honourable Miss Bingham, 1786)
- Madame Molée-Reymond by Elisabeth Vigée-Le Brun, 1786
- Miss Constable by George Romney, 1787
- The Rt Honble Countess Spencer, 1787
- Mrs. Wells by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c. 1787-1788
- Soldier with Country Women Selling Ribbons, near a Military Camp by Francis Wheatley, 1788
- The Honourable Elizabeth Ingram (later Mrs Hugo Meynell) by John Hoppner, c. 1789
- Isabella (Ingram) Seymour Conway, Viscountess Beauchamp, later Marchioness of Hertford by John Hoppner, c. 1789
- Comtesse de la Châtre (Marie Louise Perrette Aglaé Bontemps by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, 1789
- Duchess de Polignac by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, c. 1789
- Lady Bess Foster by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c. 1789
- Portrait of a young woman by Jean-Laurent Mosnier, c. 1790
- Rosina, 1790s
- Portrait of a young woman by Elisabeth Vigée-Lebrun, c. 1797