18th Century Waistcoats: Laced and/or Tied Backs

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Last updated: Feb 21, 2024

Lacing and ties were used on the backs of some waistcoats in the 18th century to improve the fit. In some cases, this may have been done to allow a later owner to cheaply adjust the fit without completely re-sewing the back. In others, the waistcoat was originally made with the lacing or ties.

A satirical letter to the editor of the Kentish Register in 1794 mentions how “The body has not eſcaped this revolutionary fury; for the lacing waiſtcoat, that kept the belly in ſhape like an eight buckle roller, has been depoſed by the rolling-collar and fold-over.”

The links to 18th century waistcoats on this page include photographs with more detailed views of the lacing and/or ties at the back, though some just have text descriptions of the laced back waistcoats.

Colonial Williamsburg 1960-700, 1730-1740, altered 1750-1765; “Skirted back sections are made of plain natural linen with eyelets forming laced expansion gussett down the center back.”
National Trust 1349005, c. 1750; ties at back
Kent State University 1983.001.0015, c. 1750; three sets of ties on the back
LACMA M.2007.211.812, c. 1750; pattern notes, “Eleven pairs of eyelets (round holes reinforced with thread) line a 19½-inch open-seam slit. These are interlaced with twill-tape to adjust the size. To further adjust size, two pairs of ½-inch-wide linen tapes, each about 18 inches long, are sewn at the side seam, one at 18¾ and one at 8¾ inches from the hem and tied at the center back.”
National Trust 1349006, c. 1750-1760; ties at back, “It has been let out and then taken in”
National Trust 1359597, 1760-1770; “Fitted by tapes at back.”
National Trust 657386, 1760-1770; “On the reverse are two pairs of cream cotton or linen tape ties.”
National Trust 1349008, c. 1760-1770; “There are eyelet holes down the centre back for lacing - possibly later alterations.”
V&A 839-1898, sewn in 1765 and altered in 1775; “The back of a slightly different shade of pink satin is probably a replacement. It has 10 pairs of eyelet holes at the centre back seam which is open from 7 cm below the neck.”
Whitaker Auction Oct 30 2010, Lot 806, a French coarse weave red wool waistcoat, 1770s, with “back and waist adjustment, partial steel buckle”
National Trust 1349009, c. 1770-1780; ties at back
National Trust 1348762.2, c. 1770-1780; “Laced on the back.” (detail)
Whitaker Auction Oct 7 2015, Lot 549, a red homespun wool waistcoat with “waist adjustment with buckle”, c. 1770-1785
National Trust 657387, c. 1770-1799; “On the reverse of the waistcoat are three pairs of linen tape ties.”
National Trust 1348792.2, c. 1775; “Remains of ties back waist.”
National Trust 1349024, c. 1775-1785, back held together with two sets of ties
National Trust 1359596, c. 1780; “Tied at back,” two pairs of ties
V&A T.49-1948, c. 1780-1789; eyelets sewn along the back
V&A 652A-1898, c. 1780-1789; two sets of ties on the back
V&A 877-1891, c. 1780-1789; “The linen tape ties at the back are probably later additions.”
V&A 256-1880, 1780s; “The back is of plain linen with three pairs of linen tapes to adjust the fit.”
V&A T.135-1975, 1780s; “There are 3 pairs of linen tape ties on the back.”
V&A CIRC.131-1963, 1780s; “There are 2 pairs of linen tape ties at the back.”
V&A T.858-1919, 1780s; “The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. An insertion of linen was made in the centre-back seam, eyelets and a tape for lacing added to each side of the seam.”
National Trust 1349026, c. 1780-1790; ties or lacing at back?
National Trust 1349022, c. 1780-1790; ties at back
National Trust 1349028, c. 1780-1790; ties at back
National Trust 1349031, c. 1780-1790; ties at back
Met C.I.39.13.164, 1780-1793; back lacing
V&A CIRC.129-1963, c. 1785-1790; “There are 2 pairs of linen tape ties on the back.”
V&A T.380-1967, a woman’s waistcoat, c. 1785-1795; “The centre-back is open with 12 worked lacing holes on each side.”
National Trust 1349030, c. 1785-1800; ties at back
V&A T.384-1972, c. 1789-1792; “2 pair of linen tape ties on the back.”
V&A T.384-1972, c. 1789-1794; “2 pairs of linen-tape ties on the back.”
National Trust 1362054, c. 1790; “One silk and one linen tie at waistcoat back. Alterations; the back has been pleated to fit a smaller wearer.”
T.173-1966, c. 1790; “There are 3 pairs of linen tape ties at the back. The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The back lining was taken in at the sides, and later, the centre-back seam unpicked.”
V&A T.190-1961, a waistcoat from a woman’s riding habit, c. 1790-1795; “The back lacing allowed a snug fit over stays and under a closely tailored coat.”
V&A T.355-1985, c. 1790-1799; “2 pairs of linen tape ties on the back.”
V&A T.147B-1924, 1790-1799; “The waistcoat was altered for fancy dress in the late 19th century. The fustian back was taken in at the side seams, eyelet holes were added around the armholes and a pair of linen tape ties added to the sides at the back waist.”
V&A 358-1905, c. 1790-1799; “The waistcoat was altered in the 19th century, probably for theatre costume; a wide triangle of linen was inserted into the centre-back seam, and 2 pairs of linen tape ties sewn to the back.”
V&A T.10-1925, 1790s; a set of ties at the lower back
National Trust 1348799.2, c. 1790-1800; “Linen tapes at waist.”
Colonial Williamsburg 1971-429, c. 1790-1820; “Waistcoat back constructed of ivory cotton with center vent and adjusted by two sets of linen ties.”
V&A CIRC.130-1963, c. 1795-1805; “Two pair of linen tape ties are sewn to the back.”