18th Century Compères

Last updated: Aug 22, 2024

Sometimes the buttons on a compère front are functional, but they are often merely decorative elements on a separate stomacher. Compères tend to be self-trimmed (if they’re trimmed at all), sometimes with lace or metal threads; the ground fabric should match the rest of the gown. Most, but not all, of the dresses with a compère button-front stomacher are robes à la française.

• Met 2009.300.1089, a silk robe à la française, French, 1730-1740
• Le Petit Déjeuner by Jean-Étienne Liotard, c. 1753-1756
• Augusta, Princess of Wales by Jean-Étienne Liotard, 1754
• V&A T.593:1 to 5-1999, a sack-back robe with a buttoned stomacher in Chinese painted silk, made in London 1760-1765 (owned by Mrs. Eva Garrick)
• V&A T.48-2008 and V&A T.49-2008, sillk compère stomachers made in Great Britain, both “trimmed with ruchings and a bow made of silk with pinked edges,” c. 1760-1769
• V&A 269-1891 a gown (robe à l’anglaise) in figured silk with “a buttoned stomacher, sewn to the robings,” made in England c. 1760-1769
• Met C.I.64.32.3a, b, a robe à la française in printed cotton, French, 1760s
• MFA 2010.589.1-2, a robe à la française in persimmon orange silk “with compere (false waistcoat) front,” French, 1760s
• Met 2009.300.914a, b, a silk robe à la française, French, 1760-1770
• V&A T.182-1958, an embroidered stomacher that “mimics the buttoned fastening and skirts of a man’s waistcoat,” made in Italy c. 1760-1780
• Maria Amalia of Saxony by Anton Raphael Mengs, c. 1761
• LACMA M.2007.211.929a-d, a robe à la française in silk, England, c. 1765
• Met 2001.472a, b, a robe à la française, silk, c. 1765; “The closed, buttoned stomacher on this particular dress is referred to as a front”
• Maria Luisa of Parma by Anton Raphael Mengs, c. 1765
• Whitaker Auction Fall 2016, Lot 550, a robe a la française in Chinese blue silk, “bodice front panel with self buttons”
• Mrs. Martha Vinson by Jeremiah Theus, c. 1766
• Henrietta Vernon, Lady Grosvenor by Thomas Gainsborough, 1766-1767
• Viscountess Grimston, née Harriot Walter by Leon Pascal Glain, 1769
• LACMA M.2007.211.718, a robe à la française in block-printed cotton, France, c. 1770
• National Museums Northern Ireland BELUM.T2410, peach silk open robe with “buttoning compere,” c. 1770
• Met 32.35.2a, b, a silk robe à la française, French, c. 1770
• Colonial Williamsburg 1993-330,A, a woman’s sack-back gown in Chinese painted silk, made in France c. 1770
• National Trust 1348709.1, a silk sack-back dress with a “centre buttoned stomacher of same fabric with self covered buttons,” 1770-1775
• V&A T.198 to C-1959, a gown (robe à l’anglaise) in striped silk lustring with a “stomacher in the Brunswick style, made in two pieces and buttoned together with 7 silk covered buttons and buttonholes,” made in England c. 1770-1775
• Centraal Museum 18093/001-002, a robe à la française in silk brocade, c. 1770-1775
• Modemuseum Hasselt 1995.0148, a robe à la française in ecru silk woven with flowers, 1770-1775
• KCI AC7621 92-34-2AB, a robe à la française in printed linen; “The front bodice of the gown is in the compères style, has two flaps attached to the inside of left and right front bodies, which are fastened by buttons. With the introduction of this style appeared in the late 18th century, the time-consuming stomacher, which had to be pinned to be worn, was no longer necessary.”
• Manchester 1954.1006, a silk stomacher and bow, 1770-1780
• Philadelphia Museum of Art 1981-9-2a,b, robe à la française with attached stomacher and matching petticoat, French, c. 1770-1780
• MoMu T13/587AB/J254, a a robe à la française in Chinese silk damask, 1770-1780
• Colonial Williamsburg 1953-850, a robe a l’anglaise in embroidered ribbed silk, made in England c. 1770-1780; “The gown has a fitted bodice with attached stomacher having decorative center-front buttons (non functional). Stomacher is stitched in place under the right robing, with hooks and eyes at the left.”
• Margaret Strachan (Mrs. Thomas Harwood) by Charles Willson Peale, c. 1771
• Theodosia Hawkins-Magill, Countess of Clanwilliam, with her son Richard, c. 1772
• Met 32.35.8a-c, a robe à la française in floral striped silk, French, c. 1774-1793
• Met 2005.61a, b, a dress (robe à la française) in silk brocade, French, c. 1775; “For all its conformity to the decorous sartorial requirements of the time, the button-closing front of the bodice is a development of the last half of the eighteenth century. Previously, the overgown did not close over the corset. The part of corset that was left exposed was concealed by an inverted triangle of fabric called the stomacher. Pinned in, it conveyed the impression of an overdress with matching underbodice and petticoat. This gown has the innovation of a compiegne, or vest-like stomacher, which is sewn onto the overdress and either pinned or, as in the case of these two gowns, buttoned closed at center front. Typically, the covered boxwood buttons repeat a detail taken from the design of the gown’s textile.” See also Let Them Eat Cake.
• Met C.I.60.39.1a, b, a robe à la française in striped silk, French, 1775-1780
• Met C.I.60.39.2a, b, a robe à la française in striped silk, French, 1775-1780
• Met C.I.61.13.1a, b, a robe à la française in floral striped silk, French, 1775-1800
• Archduchess Maria Christina, Duchess of Teschen by Johann Zoffany, 1776
• A casaquin in printed floral stripes
• Met 1978.85.1, a caraco in embroidered silk, c. 1780
• Miss Drury Lowe by George Romney