18th Century Stomachers

Last updated: Jan 7, 2024

Embroidered stomachers

  • Cooper-Hewitt 1984-106-1, late 17th or early 18th century; “This woman’s stomacher is nearly covered in rich silver metallic thread embroidery. At the top is a red and white rose tied with a bow, possibly a Tudor Rose, heraldic symbol of England. Worn with an open robe, it covered the V-shaped opening by pinning or stitching the green tabs to keep it in place, a time-consuming process. Silver threads were laid horizontally over the stomacher, and a series of stepped couching stitches secured the metal threads to the linen foundation while creating a surface pattern. The central panel terminates at the bottom in an arrowhead shape while three tabs lie on either side of it – a remnant from late 17th century fashion.”
  • Manchester 1960.265, c. 1670-1730; “Blue silk over coarse linen with padded embroidery in coloured silks and metal thread mostly in satin stitch and french knots. Scroll and floral pattern”
  • MFA 38.1342, metal threads on blue silk ground with green silk tabs at the sides; France or Italy, late 17th or early 18th century
  • Newport Historical Society 25.4, c. 1690; “Embroidered linen stomacher panel with multicolored thistle and leaves pattern on front; bound on edges with tape. Back has vestiges of one baleen stay; one is missing. Entire back piece is reinforced by rows of parallel quilting. Bead work or embroidery on the stump -- none in America (Swan). Sewing over wool, wire; floral pattern. Made in England or Massachusetts. Original owner: Margaret (Halcie) Armstrong who married William Armstrong, niece of Sir William Phippsall of Massachusetts, until c. 1714 when family came to Newport.”
  • PMA 1972-110-13, silk embroidered in silk and silver-gilt threads, England or France, c. 1690-1735
  • Manchester 1955.174, c. 1698-1702; “cream satin over canvas, embroidered in coloured silks, backed with cream silk”; see also V&A T.182-1958 for similar waistcoat shape
  • Manchester 1953.325, c. 1700; “White satin, embroidered in sections, backed with linen canvas and lined with linen printed in blue; edged with yellow silk; triangular shape cut off at base; raised embroidery in coloured silks, metal thread and spangles; design of pelican and unicorn set in formal scrolls, worked mainly in laid threads with some satin stitch.”
  • V&A T.404-1977 in silk and linen with silk and silver embroidery, England, 1700-1720
  • Manchester 1955.175, c. 1700-1720; “Cream satin, embroidered, backed with natural linen top edge straight, tapering towards rounded base. Embroidered with pinks, rosebuds and other flowers in red, pink, yellow and green silks, silver thread and spangles, worked in long and short stitch, satin and stem stitch, and couching.”
  • MFA 43.1909: Polychrome silk embroidered floral motifs with solidly-covered round of silver yarns and wire on linen canvas, silver yarns and wire on linen canvas, silver yarn over parchment details; large flange at base; seven salmon silk grosgrain tabs at sides (2 missing); green silk binding; France, 1700-1720
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1971-1558, 1700-1730; “White cotton stomacher embroidered with white linen threads in drawn work and shadow embroidery with cotton cord on the back of the shadow embroidery.”
  • Manchester 1968.12, c. 1700-1730; “Natural coloured linen embroidered with floral design in pink, fawn and green silks and silver metal thread in satin and stem stitch. Tapering from slightly concave top to blunt pointed base. Embroidered with large sprays of red roses and green leaves against back of serprentine lines backstitched with yellow silk to give quilted effect. 2.5cm borders of embroidered lined down each side, bound brown silk. Thirteen holes down inside edges of borders with gold metal lace threaded in and crossed over. Four linen tape loops seamed to each side for attachment to robe.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1991-485, England, c. 1700-1730; “Woman’s stomacher with silk and metal thread needlework on linen, worked through linen backing fabric. Design consists of stylized flowers worked in polychrome silks and metal threads, arranged on a central axis. Background 'quilted' with cross stitches.”
  • Manchester 1957.455, c. 1700-1730; “Cream linen embroidered with coloured silks. Narrow triangular piece of double thickness, slightly concave at top edge, tapering towards slight bulge at base; embroidered with pink carnation and other flowers down centre, in pink, green and yellow silks, mainly in satin stitch, against a background of meandering lines embroidered in yellow silk worked in back stitch.”
  • Manchester 1968.11, c. 1700-1730; “Cream coloured silk satin embroidered with floral design in red, pink, yellow, green and silver metal thread in satin and stem stitch. Backed natural coloured linen, tapering from slightly concave top to blunt pointed base. Embroidered with large sprays of red roses, yellow buds and green leaves. Narrow silver metal braid crossed over and attached to each side from top to bottom. Five linen tape loops seamed to each side for attachment to robe.”
  • Manchester 1968.10, c. 1700-1730; “Cream coloured corded silk embroidered with floral design in shades of pink, brown, and green silk and gold metal thread, trimmed gold metal braid, backed yellow silk figured with design of small dots. Tapering from slightly concave top to pointed base ending in rounded tab with three square-ended tabs at each side of it. Embroidered with large spray of pink roses and green leaves. Edged with narrow gold metal braid, tabs also edged with braid. Narrow gold metal braid crossed over and attached to each side from top to bottom; three yellow silk loops seamed to each side for attachment to robe.”
  • Christie’s Lot 3295 / Sale 4981, an 18th century stomacher panel, “cream silk ground worked with pink and green flowering vines”
  • MFA 43.1911, England, early 18th century
  • MFA 43.1904, an unfinished stomacher: blue silk embroidered with polychrome silk and gilt-silver yarns in design of floral sprig flanked by woman with fan and man with sprig at top, deer flanked by two floral sprigs and insect at center, floral sprig at bottom, England, 1709
  • MFA 38.1343, Italian, early 18th century
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1991-486, 1700-1740; “Woman’s stomacher with silk needlework and couched metal threads on linen, quilted with silk backstitching in vermicelli pattern, overlaid with metallic cord in criss cross design … Needlework worked through to linen backing.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1985-211, an uncut embroidered triangular stomacher with six tabs, polychrome silks and couched silver, England, 1700-1740
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1991-484, 1720-1740; “silk needlework on linen quilted with silk back stitches with yellow silk cord overlay; yellow tape trim, and a silk lining. Design consists of asymmetrical flowers and leaves worked in polychrome silks, against a background of parallel curved lines. Six tabs at waistline. Wide linen border without tabs for pinning into garment.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1985-229, England, 1720-1740; “worked with floral bouquet tied in bowknot against white ground, back-stitch quilted in vermiculate design in yellow. Edging of green silk tape. Braid lacing overlaying needlework. Backing of tabby weave linen. Stitches consist of satin, outline, couching, with quilting in back stitch.”
  • Meg Andrews 6446, c. 1720-1740; “ivory ribbed silk embroidered with a rose, a carnation and a tulip in shades of crimson and ivory twisted silks, the centre of the rose worked in looped silver metal thread, the small petalled flower at the base with similar centre, and some of the very small flowers surrounding outlined in metal thread, shaded green leaves, the whole outlined in silver metal braid, the centre worked with strips of beaten silver metal, lined in fine linen and with linen side tabs”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1991-487, Great Britain, 1720-1740; “Woman’s stomacher with silk and metal thread needlework on silk satin with metallic cord overlay in a criss-cross design, bordered with applied braid. The design of the needlework consists of asymmetrical leaves and an undulating stem with a large central flower shading from pinks to red. Six decorative tabs angle down at the lower waistline. Six yellow silk tabs are sewn to the sides for pinning into the front of a gown. The stomacher has a block-printed cotton backing in a repeat pattern of elongated diamonds in black on white (possibly originally purple).”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1993-45, England, 1720-1740; “Woman’s stomacher of triangular shape with curved sides and top, with elongated decorative tabs at bottom waistline. Stomacher is white ribbed silk, embroidered with silks in tightly-coiling floral and leaf pattern, overlaid with gold metallic tape and cord laced across the embroidery. Stomacher comes to arrowhead peak at bottom, flanked by three tabs on either side of the center point. Borders of the stomacher are plain, undecorated silk, with yellow ribbed tabs, three on each side, for pinning to gown. The back or lining of the stomacher is two different woodblock printed textiles in coiling floral pattern with dots shading the leaves and serrated flowers, crudely printed in dark brown on white (possibly once purple). The textile backing the main portion of the stomacher is cotton (with a few stray linen fibers); the backing of the tabs is linen printed in a very similar pattern. There is a shallow pocket at the top of the stomacher between the front and the backing.”
  • Patterns for stomachers in Kunst-und Fleiss-übende Nadel-Ergötzungen, 1725: V&A E.3391-1932, V&A E.3392-1932, V&A E.5091-1905
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1953-314, England, 1725-1750
  • PMA 1883-13, silk and gilt metal-wrapped thread on linen, France, c. 1725-1750
  • LACMA M.64.83.1b, Italy (?), c. 1725-1750
  • PMA 1996-148-1a,b, embroidered silk stomacher with matching collar, Italy?, c. 1730-1740
  • Manchester 1956.199, c. 1730-1740; “Pale blue silk embroidered, over white linen triangular, wide at top, base cut off in a short straight line; embroidered with floral spray in red, green and yellow silks and silver spangles and metal thread, worked in long and short stitch and laid work; scroll design embroidered along top edge in silver thread.”
  • MFA 43.1906: White cotton embroidered with polychrome silk and gilt-silver yarns in vining floral motif; two side panels lace with gilt-silver lacing over center panel; four flaring tabs at base; gilt-silver galloon trim; 6 linen tabs and 2 linen ties at sides; linen lining; England, 1730-1740
  • Nasjonalmuseet OK-05776, silk satin embroidered with silk and metal threads, lined with linen, c. 1730-1750
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1989-434, 1730-1750; “embroidered with polychrome silks and metallic threads, overlaid with metallic cord [lacing]; backed with linen”
  • V&A 702-1902 in silk and cotton with silk and silver embroidery, England, 1730-1750
  • Manchester 1947.859, c. 1730-1750; “Cream silk, boned and mounted on stiff canvas, spade-shaped. Embroidered in coloured silks in split stitch in floral design.”
  • V&A T.708B-1913 in silk and linen with silk embroidery, England, 1730-1750
  • Manchester 1947.857, c. 1730-1750; “Cream, corded silk, central panel with arrow-shaped end and side pieces joining the centre with two narrow lappets cut at each side; mounted on coarse linen and boned. Embroidered in coloured silks in flower sprays in split stitch and with spangles and metal thread.”
  • MRAH, a stomacher from a robe à la française, taffeta embroidered with polychrome silks and silver threads, c. 1740
  • Manchester 2008.23, England, c. 1740-1750
  • Rijksmuseum BK-NM-12692-A, a lace-trimmed stomacher with metal thread embroidery on silver brocade, Netherlands, c. 1740-1760
  • PMA 1975-135-1, ribbed silk embroidered in silk and metal threads, France, c. 1740-1760
  • Manchester 1947.1269, c. 1740-1760; “Pink satin, laced and embroidered with silk and metal thread, backed with line printed with line and spot pattern in red. Convex V - shape. Concave pointed end, with 7 separate tabs, a larger one central. Boned, outlined with yellow silk and metal thread braid. Wide V shaped laced panel outlined in braid, laced metal thread and silk cord. Embroidered with floral design in mainly in satin-stitch, and laid threads, with raised work, in metal thread and yellow and green silks. Five loops at each side, of the same blockprinted linen/cotton mix, madder red on white, used for backing the stomacher.”
  • MFA 29.1120 embroidered in whitework (linen on linen) in a German knot stitch, America
  • MFA 47.1024, probably American, 1747
  • Cooper-Hewitt 1962-52-16, mid-18th century; “This stomacher is embroidered in a floral motif with a silver-wrapped silk thread. The raised effect is achieved by working the metal threads over pieces of paperboard stuffing. The linen substrate is reinforced with a paper backing, which may have helped it withstand repeated use.”
  • V&A T.68-1947, straw splints couched to linen, with silk and silver thread embroidery; France or Italy, c. 1750
  • Christie’s Lot 3 / Sale 5572, cloth of silver finely worked in coloured silks with a bouquet of flowers and leaves tied with a ribbon, England, mid 18th century
  • MFA 03.1351, silver threads and spangles on white silk; America, mid-18th century
  • MFA 43.123, England
  • Cooper-Hewitt 1962-52-17, a child's stomacher, France
  • Cooper-Hewitt 1971-50-125; “Embroidered in satin and stem stitches, couched flat metal strips, metal-wrapped silk, and flat strips with metal-wrapped silk; wire coils attached; faces and arms painted; on plain weave foundation … The elaborate silk and metallic embroidery on this stomacher illustrates the importance of the pastoral themes in the French court of the Rococo period.”
  • MFA 43.1905: White silk taffeta embroidered with polychrome silk and gilt-silver yarns; design of seated woman, fruit backets at top sides, birds at bottom sides, flowers between; Italy, 1750-1775
  • Rijksmuseum BK-NM-12187-C, a lace-trimmed stomacher with floral embroidered appliques on silver tulle, c. 1750-1775
  • Rijksmuseum BK-NM-3405, a green silk stomacher with a silver mesh overlay and chenille-embroidered appliques, c. 1750-1775
  • Manchester 1947.1268, c. 1750-1780; “White corded silk, embroidered in metal thread; backed with white silk. V-shaped, in two sections with central seam,concave top. Corded silk on central panel, embroidered in chevron pattern, lightly boned, silk ribbon loops at bottom left-hand side and at top and bottom of the right-hand side; arrow-shaped points, with three tabs on either side, bound with corded silk, embroidered with lines of stem stitch.”
  • V&A T.182-1958 mimicking the shape of a waistcoat front, Italy, 1760-1780
  • Manchester 1922.2133, Germany
  • Manchester 1929.345, Britain; “White linen, embroidered with yellow silk. Stitches; background in back; pattern in buttonhole; buttonholed eyelets; edge buttonholed. Pattern; scrolling flower on quilted background. Linen is doubled; threading cord.”

Quilted stomachers

  • Met 79.1.115, cotton and linen, early 18th century
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1985-227, linen and cotton, England, c. 1700-1730
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1952-63, England, 1700-1730; “white taffeta, backed with linen, quilted in black seed stitches; quilted design of scrolling, ascending vines, outlined in black linen on silk”
  • Nasjonalmuseet OK-00979, first half of the 18th century
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1985-209, England, c. 1700-1750; “White cotton triangular stomacher (front for woman's bodice) with tri-lobed bottom, worked in symmetrical scrolls and flowers in a combination of cord quilting and linen needlework in French knots, back stitch, and satin stitch through coarser linen backing. Six tabby weave tape tabs sewn to sides for pinning into gown.”
  • Manchester 1947.1266, c. 1700-1750; “White linen backed with coarser linen. Blunt end; embroidered with 2 branches of leaves with flowers (5 in total) in corded quilting.”
  • Manchester 1947.1267, c. 1700-1750; “White linen backed with coarser linen. Tapering, rounded end, with linen pocket. Embroidered with two floral sprays in corded quilting.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1989-438, 1720-1750; “white linen, cord quilted with yellow silk back stitches in a scroll pattern, framed with white cotton/linen dimity and laced across with white linen cord”
  • V&A T.209-1929 in quilted linen, England, 1730-1750
  • LACMA M.67.8.98, Netherlands, c. 1740-1750; “Cotton plain weave with cotton embroidery and cotton corded quilting”

Lace stomachers

A white lace stomacher may resemble a bib on an apron, as shown on these three girls – or, as modeled by Catherina Elmendorf, a lace stomacher could be worn over a gown on its own, without an apron.

Stomachers with applied trimmings (passementerie, fly fringe, lace, etc.)

  • Manchester 1947.858, France, c. 1700-1730; “White silk stomacher in a V-shape with applique of metals and coloured silks; the top edge is trimmed with silver metal lace.”
  • Nasjonalmuseet OK-06198, with silver and silk passementerie, first half of the 18th century
  • LACMA M.67.8.99, France, c. 1700-1750; “Silk satin with metallic-thread lace, silk and metallic-thread plain-weave appliqués, metallic-thread passementerie, and tassels”
  • A stomacher with fly fringe and lace, Germany
  • John Bright Collection, damask with applied green (fly fringe?) decoration, second quarter of the 18th century
  • LACMA 63.2.5, France, mid-18th century; “Ombré ribbon, silk thread, fly fringe and lace on silk damask”
  • MFA 43.1838: white silk-covered wire in stylized floral motif, with a starched gauze backing and pink silk lining, mid-18th century
  • MFA 49.918; blue-green silk, front covered with pinked and rouched bands and rosettes in the same color; America, mid-18th century
  • LACMA M.80.27.1, France or Italy, c. 1750; “Patterned silk trimmed with silk ribbon, fly fringe, and lace, paper backing”
  • MFA 43.1913: Gilt-silver lace decorated with salmon, green and blue floss and chenille silk yarns, silk fly fringe and ribbon; mounted on white silk over paper and linen
  • Manchester 1969.50, c. 1750-1770; “Cream silk and linen satin, bound black silk ribbon, lined with white linen and with stiffening of paper and cardboard. Triangle, top edge slightly concave, tapering into waist and out below waist into square base with rounded corners. Narrow braid sewn down centre; three pairs of graduated triangles, bases sewn into sides, points caught at centre by wooden buttons covered with black silk. Pair of irregular sections applied below waist and points caught at centre (two buttons missing); all edges bound with ribbon. One ribbon tab missing above waist at right side.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1958-24, England or France, c. 1750-1770; “Stomacher of ivory silk taffeta decorated with linen bobbin lace, garlands of silk ribbon flowers, silk fly-fringe foliage (in shades of pink, mauve, gold, rust, ivory and green), bows of 1¼" width bobbin lace; narrow scalloped bobbin lace edges”
  • Manchester 1958.21/3, c. 1760-1770; “Blue satin over white linen. Triangular piece, trimmed with silver braid with spangles, in horizontal lines. Blue and silver ribbon bow at base.”
  • John Bright Collection, 1760s-1770s; “This cream silk stomacher is bordered with blonde bobbin lace. The lower section is decorated with tiny flowers – some like little pompoms, buds, berries and leaves on stems of wire wrapped with green silk thread, standing proud from the loops of cream silk beneath, to which they are attached. In places the silk thread has perished or been displaced, exposing coiled wires like small springs, so that the flowers etc. quiver with movement. Stitch marks evident on the upper area of the underside point to the whole stomacher once being covered in this way. Two original pins remain embedded in the lining.”
  • Manchester 1954.1006, compère stomacher with bows, c. 1770-1780; “Stomacher, cream silk striped in shades of pink and green. Triangular, blunted point at waist; in two halves, caught together down centre beneath nine silk-covered buttons. Ruched and pinked with silk trimming curving from each top corner to base.”
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1991-472,C, stomacher for a sack-back poloniase gown (1991-472,A), England, 1770-1780

Other stomachers

  • MFA 49.917, possibly French, worn in America, early 18th century. V-shaped stomacher of cloth-of-silver possibly woven to shape; some metallic cord for lacing remains at bottom with evidence of full lacing on silk edging and bands at top; cream silk lining; two interior horizontal bones.
  • Manchester 1972.87, c. 1700-1730; “Cream silk figured in pink, green and brown silks and silver and gold thread, in floral design. Faced buff plain weave; single flat section narrowing to waist and widening out slightly below, ending in rounded central tab with three squared off tabs on each side; narrow (0.5cm) gold braid along top edge, round edges of tabbed section and in three lines down centre converging on central tab, sides bound with yellow plain weave silk, three yellow silk loops on each side to attach to dress; interlined with buckram; top edge of facing turned over and caught back roughly at centre; tabs at lower edge faced separately.”
  • CG CG8.a, a stomacher from the Nether Wallop Cache, found in a farmhouse in Hampshire, England; “The stomacher is formed of five main layers, that have been hand stitched together, an outer layer of yellow rep-weave silk, which is backed with paper. Supporting this there is a layer of whalebone strips, at the widest point twenty-four lines running diagonally down the stomacher. The last two layers form the lining; first there is a layer of natural course weave linen that has been stitched down between each whalebone strip, covering this there is layer of natural colour plain weave linen, block printed in black with a flower pattern. There is also a strip of natural colour linen running down the right-hand side, of the front of the stomacher, which is likely to have been added when it was altered. This is a cream and orange twill-weave fabric, woven to form a pattern of small concentric diamonds. The poor condition of the stomacher has exposed the different layers from which it is composed, making it possible to study the materials and techniques used in its construction. The stomacher has a shallow curved top edge and a spoon shaped base. It is not entirely symmetrical; it appears to have been re-shaped down the right front side. There are also the remains of an additional strip of whalebone down the centre of the stomacher at the back, this is sewn in crudely with thick linen thread. The same linen thread has been used to add a series of random large, stitches across the garment, the purpose of these stitches is not currently known.”
  • Cooper-Hewitt 1938-88-993, design for a jeweled stomacher, Italy, 1725-1750
  • Cooper-Hewitt 1938-88-868, design for a jeweled stomacher, Italy, 1775-1800