18th Century Spangles
Last updated: Aug 18, 2023
SPANGLE: A ſmall plate or boſs of ſhining metal; any thing ſparkling and ſhining. (A Complete Dictionary of the English Language, 1789)
Spangles were used to decorate a wide variety of garments and accessories for men and women. These small, flat sequins, often made of silver, add accents that reflect candlelight – making them ideal for wearing at court and formal evening occasions.
Eighteenth century embroidery patterns in The Lady’s Magazine sometimes featured spangles, including Pattern of a Shoe for Shading in Colours and for Embroidery with Gold, Silver & Spangles (February 1771), Pattern of a Gentleman’s Ruffle (July 1771), Patterns for a Gentleman’s Ruffle (1771), An Elegant Pattern for Working a Waistcoat (March 1775), Two new Patterns for Shoes (April 1775), and New Patterns for Shoes (March 1778).
This list is grouped by type of garment or accessory, rather than being in chronological order.
Banyans
- National Trust 1349100, 1770-1800
Coats
- FIT 2013.3.3, Scotland, c. 1745
- Met 33.124.2a, b, 1750-1775
- National Trust 1348777, 1760-1770
- National Trust 1349414.1, 1760-1770
- National Trust 1348791, 1770
- V&A T.214:1, 2-1992, possibly France or Netherlands, c. 1770
- National Trust 1348783.1, 1770-1779
- V&A T.365:1, 2-1995, made in Great Britain, 1770-1779
- National Trust 1348762.1, 1770-1780
- Manchester 1954.1098, 1770-1790
- National Trust 1349102, 1770-1800
- National Trust 1349760, 1770-1800
- National Trust 292106, 1770-1800
- National Trust 1348785, 1780
- Musé de l’Armée 09405, uniform of the aide-de-camp of the governor of the army of the Elector of Saxony
- V&A 106-1891, 1780s
- National Trust 1348760, 1780-1790
- V&A T.9-1972, Italian, c. 1790
Fans
- National Trust 980551.1
- National Trust 852846
- Met 42.150.31, French
- Met 48.58.22, French, mid-18th century
- National Trust 980549.1, 1750
- Rueil-Malmaison, châteaux de Malmaison et Bois-Préau, MM.51.2.48, 1750
- Met 48.58.1, Italian or French, third quarter of the 18th century
- National Trust 1363170, 1760
- V&A 2186-1876, English, 1765-1775
- Met 24.80.2, French, c. 1774-1793
- Met 48.58.5, French, c. 1775
- Manchester 1953.267, 1775-1780
- Kunstmuseum Den Haag 0390810, c. 1775-1799
- Versailles V5845.227, 1776-1800
- Met 90.2.34, possibly German, c. 1780-1785
- Versailles V5845.223, 1780-1790
- Rijksmuseum BK-KOG-2469-A, c. 1783-1784
- Rijksmuseum BK-1992-14, c. 1784
- Manchester 1953.269, 1790-1810
- Museum Rotterdam 63383-1, 1799
Gowns
- V&A 114&A-1873, a sack and petticoat, English, embroidered 1735-1740 and sewn 1750-1759
- Manchester 1953.213, a bodice, 1740-1760
- Galerie des Modes, 11e Cahier, 6e Figure, 1778: “Ball dress. The bodice and petticoat are of the same stuff and color. This petticoat is pulled up with tassels on the sides, a little in back, and on the front unevenly through the pockets: it allows, as it were, the discovery of a second petticoat of a different color, trimmed with a volant of striped gauze, headed with a flower garland, with barrieres of flowers and sequins. Little apron of gauze matching the volant, trimmed around the edges. The body has a top-rounded bib, showing graceful contours. Sleeves with large gauze sabot cuffs, trimmed in poufs, with pearls, flowers, and sequins.”
- Galerie des Modes, 21e Cahier, 2e Figure, 1779: “New Gown, called à la Longchamps, pulled up with love-knots and tassels, trimmed with sequins … Skirt of the Gown open in front, pulled up in garlands with tassels equipped with cordelieres in love-locks; the edges trimmed with embroidery in sequins of many colors.”
- Galerie des Modes, 1er Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 6e Figure: “The trimming of a trimmed gown dressed with blue crêpe, the parement of a garland of sequins edged with cornflowers, the petals in blue and green sequins, the leaves in green sequins, and the bases and hearts in stones, a large satin and pinked crêpe chicory positioned behind … The petticoat of white taffeta covered with crêpe edged with blue sequins, a volant of a large garland edged with blue and green sequins; cornflowers in stones and sequins edged on the bottom with a very high blonde lace, a tulle ground with a border, held up with a large garland of roses positioned on a pleated frill of the same blonde.”
- Galerie des Modes, 2e Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 2e Figure: “The furnishing and trimming of a grand presentation dress of black fleuret, the petticoat covered with an embroidered, spangled, bronzed crêpe with very rich sequins, the petticoat bordered with a fringe of tassels in branched-work and sequins, the head of black sequins in festoons, a drapery on the right and on the left of sequined crêpe, edged with the same fringe as on the bottom of the petticoat, ended with beautiful, shining black tassels and attached with sequins, the bottom of the gown of black-spangled crêpe, trimmed with a stomacher en barrière of black sequins and black stone buttons, the veins and epaulettes matching”
- Met 1998.314a,b, a robe à la polonaise, British, c. 1780
- Galerie des Modes, 3e Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 4e Figure, January 2, 1785: “The trimming and the bodice of a gown of white crêpe, spangled with silver in faux vermicelli patterns, the parement trimmed with a beautiful garland of two fringes in silver lamé, and a third row of gold in the middle, pinched bouillon-style at the ends, each bouillon held with a flower of blue spangles and green leaves. The manchettes edged with a fine silver fringe and frivolité, and a fine petit pied of blonde. The petticoat of white taffeta covered with white crêpe, striped at the edges with white sequins, edged with oval stones or scattered very thickly in a pattern of faux sequins. The bottom of the petticoat edged with a pleated ruffle of crêpe striped in two rows of fine silver fringe and a third row of fine gold. A pleated, pulled-up volant of white crêpe edged with silver sequins at the end, edged at the bottom by a ribbon edged in rich stones and a fine silver fringe held with a garland matching that of the parement in gold and fine silver.”
- Galerie des Modes, 2e Cahier de Grandes Robes d'Etiquette, 3e Figure, January 20, 1788: “The furnishing of a full gown, the petticoat of white taffeta, covered with a crêpe spotted with silver sequins, forming a fabric with contrary pleats, the foot of the petticoat trimmed with a large band of green sequins striped with white sequins, bordered at the bottom with a high gold fringe and tatting; three festoons forming shells bordered with a very high fringe of gold and silver tassels, a very beautiful garland in branch-work of green and pearl spangles mixed with gold spangles, with large flowers of blue spangles, the top of the petticoat striped in columns of garlands of green spangles, all a branch-work mixed with pearl: the bottom of the gown of blue satin trimmed with a fringe of gold and silver tassels; a band spotted with spangles, a flat gold fringe with tatting at the top; the grand corps of blue satin trimmed with a stomacher of black velvet embroidered with stones, the edging and shoulder straps matching. Four gold and fine silver gown tassels.”
- Costume Parisien: Fichu - Turban semé de Pailettes …
Pocketbooks & Purses
- Kunstmuseum Den Haag 0211801, a silk work bag
- National Trust 1349538, a silk netted long purse, 1750-1760
- MFA 56.1143, a quilted silk pocketbook, French, mid to late 18th century
- National Trust 1152452, a silk work bag, c. 1803
Shoes
- Kunstmuseum Den Haag 0210269, a pair of mules
- National Trust 1348821.1/1348821.2, 1770-1780
- National Trust 1362001, 1775-1780
- Galerie des Modes, 11e Cahier, 6e Figure, 1778: “Shoes with low heels, the coup-de-pied free, embroidered with sequins. Round rosettes, with a large sequin in the center.
- Galerie des Modes, 29e Cahier, 4e Figure, 1780: “We will only observe here, the long and pointed slippers … gold, silver, sequins, large sequins soon made shoes look like real jewels. Women having ceased to put diamonds on their heads, began to ornament their feet with them, and the shoe became an object of splendor and magnificence.”
- Centraal Museum 4416/001-002, 1780-1789
- Manchester 1947.923, 1785-1800
Stomachers
- Manchester 1953.325, 1700-1720
- Manchester 1955.175, 1700-1720
- Manchester 1947.857, 1730-1750
- V&A T68-1947, possibly French or Italian, c. 1750
- MFA 03.1351, American, probably mid-18th century
Waistcoats
- National Trust 1361221, 1700
- National Trust 1355480.1/1355480.2, 1720
- Massachusetts Historical Society 1113, waistcoat made in England or France c. 1720-1730 and owned by Massachusetts Lt. Gov. William Tailer; more details at MassHist, SilkDamask, philippe_on_fleek
- V&A 252-1906, France, c. 1730-1739
- National Trust 1402224, c. 1730-1740 (with matching breeches 1402225)
- FIT 2013.3.3, Scotland, c. 1745
- National Trust 1359453, 1750
- National Trust 1349004, 1750-1755
- National Trust 1348939, 1750-1799
- National Trust 709706, 1759-1761
- Met 1981.14.6a, b, 1760s
- National Trust 1349414.2, 1760-1770
- National Trust 1359455, 1770
- National Trust 1348783.2, 1770-1779
- National Trust 1349010, 1770-1780
- National Trust 657387, 1770-1799
- National Trust 292107, 1770-1800
- National Trust 1349314, 1770-1848
- National Trust 1349023, 1775-1780
- National Trust 1349012, 1775-1785
- National Trust 1349024, 1775-1785
- Centraal Museum 4373, 1775-1800
- Galerie des Modes, 23e Cahier, 1ere Figure, 1779: “a vest of cloth of gold, relieved with gold embroidery and sequins of diverse colors.”
- Met C.I.66.59.2a, b, probably French, c. 1780
- Museum Rotterdam 65853, 1780-1785
- National Trust 1349021, 1780-1790
- National Trust 1349013, 1780-1790
- National Trust 1349015, 1780-1790
- National Trust 1348936, 1780-1799
- Met 23.202, French
- Museum Rotterdam 65852, 1780-1800
- Rijksmuseum BK-NM-12171, c. 1789-1814
- Centraal Museum 7325, c. 1790
- NPS SAMA 938, a waistcoat owned by Elias Hasket Derby, c. 1790-1795
- National Trust 658045, 1790-1819