18th Century Shoe Buckles

Last updated: Jan 7, 2024

See also linkspages on men’s shoes, women’s shoes, and tied shoes elsewhere on this website.

The links below are the dated examples I’ve found online. There are several more undated examples, including several at the Philadelphia Museum of Art in lead (1929-168-4a,b, 1929-168-11a,b, 1929-168-12a,b, 1929-168-13a,b, 1929-168-18a,b, 1929-168-35, 1929-168-36, 1929-168-37, 1929-168-38) or pewter (1929-168-30, 1929-168-32) or silver (1929-168-5a,b, 1929-168-8a,b, 1929-168-10a,b, 1929-168-15a,b, 1929-168-28) or steel (1929-168-26, 1929-168-29, 1929-168-31)

Most of the shoe buckles feature steel chapes; the metal on the upper part of the buckle varies, and I have sorted the buckles by material below, in order to maintain some semblance of order.

You can also find 18th century shoe buckles on eBay.

Brass

National Trust 1148786, 18th century
PMA 1929-168-1a,b, rectangular brass shoe buckles, America, early 18th century
PMA 1929-168-39, America
Winterthur 1983.0060, made in Philadelphia, 1750-1777
Historic New England 1963.17ab, c. 1750-1800; “Pair of rectangular brass shoe buckles with rounded corners, applied rosettes at top and bottom of frame, steel chape, piece of leather looped through the chapes.”
Historic New England 1925.41, c. 1750-1800; “rectangular shoe buckle, bright cut engraving along border”
Historic New England 2007.15.56ab, c. 1750-1800; “Pair of rectangular brass shoe buckles with engraved diamond design”
Historic New England 1925.40, c. 1750-1800; “rectangular shoe buckle, engraved vine design”
Historic New England 1934.650, c. 1750-1800; “Square brass shoe buckle with canted corners, molded bows at top and bottom of frame”
Historic New England 1935.902ab, c. 1760-1800; “Pair of brass rectangular shoe buckles, large stamped bows applied to top and bottom, stamped x design along edge”
V&A M.37&A-1909 stamped gold on brass in a design of wavy ribbons and flowers, 1770-1780, England
Llanerchaeron National Trust 547160, 1770-1800; “Pair of round brass shoe buckles. Fluted brass rectangular ring. Hinged steel bi-prong with rounded end and belt loop. Brass covered in gilt.”
Historic New England 1925.370, oval shoe buckle, c. 1770-1800
Historic New England 1947.150cd, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of brass rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, molded scalloped edge with stylized floral and geometric engraving”
Killerton National Trust 1355598.1, 1790; “One of a pair of shoe buckles - rectangular, with rounded corners. Curved. Design of flowers on front with black leather in centre.”
PMA 1929-168-19a,b, America, late 18th century

Copper

NMS-C1BBA4, a fragment found at East Walton, Norfolk, probably made c. 1660-1720
Historic New England 1925.369, c. 1750-1800; “rectangular shoe buckle, engraved circles and stylized waves on border”

Gold

PMA 2005-68-72, gold buckle with rococo cast and chased ornament, Philadelphia, c. 1760-1770

Lead

PMA 1929-168-7a,b, pair of lead buckles, America, late 18th century
PMA 1929-168-2a,b pair of lead shoe buckles, worked in relief, America, late 18th century

Pewter

Historic New England 1925.42, America, c. 1750-1800; “Rectangular pewter shoe buckle with rounded corners, pierced frame with diamond design”
Historic New England 1942.1549.1-2, America, c. 1770-1790; “Pair of matching pewter rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, molded stylized border”
Historic New England 2006.44.274, used in America, c. 1770-1790
Historic New England 1936.866ab, America, c. 1775-1800; “Pair of pewter rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, frame is pierced and impressed with marquise shaped decoration”
Historic New England 2006.44.337, used in America, c. 1775-1800; “Pewter shoe buckle with metal pastes carved along circumference” (compare Historic New England 2006.44.364)
Buckles from the General Carleton of Whitby, 1785
PMA 1929-168-14a,b, pewter buckles worked in relief, America, late 18th century

Silver

Winterthur 2008.0046.002 A, B, United States
Winterthur 1969.1681.001 & 1969.1681.002, Paris
Snowshill Wade National Trust 1333732; “Fine silver shoe buckle, oblong with rounded corners and two prongs. Finely chased outer border.”
Winterthur 1977.0169.001 & 1977.0169.002, New York, 1723-1772
Winterthur 1953.0099.001 & 1953.0099.002, United Kingdom, 1740-1790
Winterthur 1958.1962.001 & 1958.1962.002, North America, 1765-1785
V&A T.319-1982, rectangular silver buckle with cast and chased cusped design, England, c. 1770-1784
Historic New England 1964.80ab, America, c. 1770-1790; “Pair of silver rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, pierced border, engraved rosettes and facets; hinged chape with tongue.”
PMA 1921-34-146,a, Philadelphia, c. 1774-1780
Historic New England 2006.44.364, used in America, c. 1775-1800; “Round silver shoe buckle with raised faceted beaded decoration and cloth backing”
Winterthur 2008.0046.003, United States, after 1780
V&A M.28:1 to 3-1998, silver and leather buckles in a shagreen case, made in London c. 1779-1780
V&A M.33-1909, silver with interlacing ribbon and floral design, Birmingham, c. 1780s
V&A M.36A-1909, silver with interlaced band design, London, c. 1780-1790
RISD 1986.076.3, pair of shoe buckles, America, c. 1780-1800
PMA 1981-65-5,6, silver shoe buckles, Philadelphia, c. 1780-1810
Historic New England 1945.252ab, c. 1780-1820; “Pair of matching silver rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, stamped x design with scalloped edge; brass hinged chape and tongues.”
V&A M.39-1909, bright-cut silver with an openwork design with quatrefoils, London, c. 1785-1795
PMA 1994-168-1a,b, Philadelphia, c. 1785-1795
V&A M.31&A-1909, silver buckle with interlaced ovals and circles, London, late 18th century
PMA 1929-168-9a,b, America, late 18th century
V&A M.32-1909, bright-cut silver with a flower and leaf design, London, c. 1790
V&A M.34-1909 and M.34A-1909, silver with a running husk frieze, London, c. 1790
MFA 30.36 and 30.37, silver buckles with “reeded and bright cut rectangular curved frame, bright cut swags inside between corners, with rosettes midway on long swags,” Massachusetts, c. 1790-1800
V&A M.38-1909, silver buckles with steel prong, London, 1794-1795; “Octagonal, openwork design of a concave moulding with pearled edges interrupted at intervals by knot-work and rosettes.”
V&A M.30-1909, London, c. 1795; “Oblong with rounded corners, openwork design of interlacing stems of flowers and faceted pellet rim, the surface bright-cut and milled”
Winterthur 1959.0751, Birmingham, 1795-1805

Steel

Manchester 1953.317, V-shaped gilt steel shoe buckles with raised design, c. 1750-1790
Historic New England 2007.15.54ab, plain rectangular shoe buckles, c. 1750-1790
Historic New England 2007.15.53ab, c. 1750-1800; “Pair of rectangular steel shoe buckles with rounded corners, ridged frame”
LACMA M.81.109.6, man’s steel shoe buckle, England, c. 1770-1785
Historic New England 1976.1918ab, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of steel rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, bright cut engraving on border”
Historic New England 1947.150ab, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of steel rectangular steel shoe buckles with rounded corners, incised floral decoration”
Historic New England 1945.51ab, England, c. 1775-1790; “Pair of round shoe buckles set with horseshoe shaped colorless pastes in steel mounted in a steel frame, gold colored metal swags applied to the inner border”
Historic New England 1940.772ab, c. 1775-1800; “Pair of rectangular shoe buckles with canted corners and bright cut border with impressed circles with flowers at corners and edge”
Historic New England 1940.773ab, c. 1775-1800; “Pair of steel square shoe buckles with rounded corners, frame is impressed with a ridged border”
V&A M.2-1969, cut steel with jasperware plaques, made in England c. 1776-1820
V&A T.91&A-1924, steel (formerly decorated with silver foil applied to a tin base) in a rectangular design, England, c. 1777-1780
PMA 1907-216,a, America, late 18th century
Historic New England 1925.367c, c. 1790-1820; “Steel oval shoe buckle; brass hinged chape and tongue.”
V&A M.187&A-1926, cut steel and leather buckles made in Birmingham, c. 1792-1806

Set with gems

V&A M.48&A-1962, buckles with diamonds and sapphires set in silver and gold, formerly part of the Russian Crown Jewels; made in London (?), c. 1750

Set with pastes

Kingston Lacy Estate National Trust 1258723
Llanerchaeron National Trust 547166, c. 1714-1830; “Pair of rectangular steel shoe buckles with rounded corners, encrusted in paste diamonds. Buckle made up of steel cups to take individual diamonds. Hinged bi-prong with rounded end and lyre shaped loop.”
Historic New England 2007.15.57a-c, England, c. 1740-1780; “Pair of paste rectangular shoe buckles in original box, two rows of various shaped colorless pastes and paste flowers at top, bottom and corners set in silver, copper strip with engraved geometric pattern; steel hinged chape and tongue. Wooden box covered in black shagreen, cream and black silk lining.” (Similar to buckles from the 1780s. See also V&A M.9&A-1973 and MFA 95.1363 & 95.1364 below.)
MFA 95.1363 and 95.1364, buckles worn by John Warren of Boston, Massachusetts, second half of the 18th century; “Colorless glass pastes set in silver closed back mount. Each paste has a dot of black paint at bottom to simulate an open culet. Paste rosettes at center flanked by graduating oblong pastes. At each corner is a cluster of four round pastes. Rectangular gold border engraved with swag motif. Steel double tongue.”
V&A 899-1877 and 899A-1877, silver buckle in the form of a bow, set with pastes, c. 1760
MFA 12.33 and 12.34, pastes set in silver with bows and clusters, America, c. 1760-1770
Historic New England 1922.1035ab, c. 1760-1800; “Pair of paste oval shoe buckles, single row of alternating oval and round colorless pastes set in silver around gold colored metal band.”
Historic New England 1966.449a-c, c. 1760-1800; “Pair of paste oval shoe buckles in original case, rectangular colorless pastes with paste flower design at top and bottom all set in silver, surrounds thin engraved gold strip; steel hinged chape and tongue. Wooden box covered in black shagreen, cream silk lining.”
V&A M.168-1975, silver set with marcasites and colored pastes, c. 1770
MFA 47.1025 & 47.1026, pair of man’s shoe buckles in silver with white pastes, England, c. 1770
V&A 947-1864 and 947A-1864, oval silver buckle set with glass pastes, England, c. 1770
V&A M.70-1962, silver with blue pastes, c. 1770
V&A 945-1864 and 945A-1864, silver set with pastes, c. 1770
Historic New England 2007.15.52, c. 1770-1790; “Oval shoe buckle, pastes set in silver with applied die-rolled gold border surrounding a rectangle of die-rolled gold with flower design”
Historic New England 1969.2995.1-2, England, c. 1770-1790; “Pair of matching oval shoe buckles, two concentric rows of round colorless pastes set in silver”
Historic New England 1969.2992.1-2, England, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of matching oval shoe buckles, two concentric circles of colorless brilliant pastes set in silver (?), outside circle has scalloped edge; brass hinged chape and tongue. Run on pieces of black leather.”
Historic New England 1918.1037ab, England, c. 1775-1790; “Pair of elliptical shoe buckles set with rectangular colorless pastes in steel frames, gold colored metal patterned border on inner edge”
Historic New England 1969.3027.1-2, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of rectangular shoe buckles with rounded corners, two concentric rows of colorless pastes set in silver separated by a molded band”
Historic New England 1929.390a-c, England, c. 1770-1800; “Pair of paste rectangular shoe buckles, single row of rectangular colorless pastes set in silver around gold colored metal tooled bezel; steel hinged chape and tongue. Buckles in original wooden case with shagreen cover and padded blue silk liner.”
Winterthur 1974.0163.001 & 1974.0163.002, England, 1775-1810
V&A 224-1864, silver set with pastes and pyrites, England, c. 1780s
V&A M.9&A-1973, England, c. 1780s; “Pair of shoe buckles, gold and silver rim, with rosettes and set with pastes. Inner rims are gold and are edged with white pastes set in silver. Both have prongs of steel.”
V&A 946-1864, silver set with pastes, England, c. 1780s
PMA 1929-168-21a,b, silver buckles set with glass beads, America
PMA 1921-34-145,a, silver shoe buckle with glass beads, Philadelphia, 1790
Historic New England 1953.41a-c, Birmingham, c. 1780-1790; “Rectangular buckles with square and rectangular colorless pastes set in silver with engraved gilt metal inner border, steel chapes and tongues on reverse. All in black leather fitted case with white satin lining.”
PMA 1929-168-3a,b, silver buckles set with glass beads, America, late 18th century
PMA 1929-168-27, pewter worked in relief with glass beads, America
Historic New England 2006.44.202, round paste buckle, used in America, c. 1780-1800
Historic New England 1940.490ab, England, c. 1790-1810; “Pair of round shoe buckles set with round colorless pastes in a steel frame, each has pin with no tongue or roll.”

Ceramic

Winterthur 1982.0146, creamware, Staffordshire, c. 1740-1760
Manchester 1923.189, oval shoebuckles of glazed earthenware, Staffordshire, c. 1780
Manchester 1968.14, creamware painted with husk and floral borders, Staffordshire, c. 1780-1800