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18th Century Printed Waistcoats

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Last updated: Aug 28, 2025

Some waistcoats were made of fabrics that were printed to shape – that is, the fabric was printed to be cut out and used as a waistcoat-front, with all of its embellishments in place. Others are made of chintz or calico fabrics in colorful floral designs; these remind me of Hawaiian aloha shirts. I’ve grouped the extant printed waistcoats as printed-to-shape waistcoats (and waistcoat-fronts) and other printed waistcoats.

It’s possible that some of these were made to go with banyans and morning gowns, for gentlemen’s undress wear; this is certainly the case for Kunstmuseum Den Haag 1037659 and Christies Sale 5577, Lot 13, and the presence of false waistcoat-flaps in other banyans suggests that this practice was not unheard-of.

However, they could have been worn in other contexts too, as under a coat or jacket. (None of the printed waistcoats in the descriptions below reference anything banyan-like.) In The Recruiting Serjeant, or, Brown Bess Sooner Than Bigg Belly’d Betty, the recruit seems to be wearing a chintz waistcoat under his jacket.

Waistcoats in printed fabrics (yard goods)

(Somewhat related: V&A IS.20-1976 is made of a chintz printed in India c. 1770-1775 and made up as a waistcoat in the 19th century.)

Printed-to-shape waistcoats & waistcoat-fronts

  • Figure 4.7 in For the heat is beyond your conception for a coverlet made from uncut linen fabric printed with a waistcoat pattern; Hurst also describes printed jackets and stamped jacket patterns.
  • V&A IS.9-2012, waistcoat front of chintz with floral border and conch shell motifs, embroidered with silver-wrapped silk threads, made in India (Coromandel Coast) for the European market c. 1740
  • V&A 1583-1899, a long-sleeved waistcoat with a blue floral printed cotton front, Swiss, 1750-1760
  • Manchester 1983.619, a waistcoat in cream cotton printed with a Stormont (tiny dot) pattern, 1770-1775. Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 describes this as a “copper-plate printed-to-shape waistcoat, around 1770-1790,” and provides more detailed information about this waistcoat and other printed-to-shape garments.
  • Colonial Williamsburg 1993-338, waistcoat in plate-printed linen tabby printed to shape with a meandering floral vine pattern, England, 1770-1785
  • V&A 82-1899, cream printed cotton corduroy waistcoat fabric, English, 1775-1799
  • Cooper Hewitt 1962-54-18-a/c, an uncut waistcoat printed on cotton, 1785-1795
  • Christie’s Sale 5473, Lot 41, an unusual gentleman’s cotton Newmarket waistcoat printed with trompe l’oeil tassels in black, 1790s, probably English (compare to V&A CIRC.127-1963 and V&A T.76-1962, which have similar designs but use embroidery and printed trim; Benjamin Laming wears a similar waistcoat, but it was probably embroidered)
  • Charles A. Whitaker Oct 29 2016, Lot 530, a printed cotton waistcoat with grapevine borders and self fabric buttons, c. 1790-1810
  • Cooper Hewitt 1962-54-17, an uncut waistcoat printed on cotton, France, c. 1795
  • Concord Museum PER2056A, Concord area of Massachusetts, c. 1805; “Square cut waistcoat. Printed, glazed worsted wool or cotton front; plain cotton back. Diamond pattern in green, cream and brown, edged with a floral pattern in brown and cream--continuous pattern that continues up the back's hem, not a separately sewn tape. 2 perpendicular row of brass buttons down the front, 10 in each row. 2 pockets, edged with same floral pattern used in border print. Lined with plain cotton. Single thickness back; cooler garment for warm weather.”

Descriptions of print waistcoats

  • “This is to give Notice, THAT a Gentleman’s Servant was robbed on Friday the 10th of July inſt at Bowtree near Doncaſter, of three London Bills of Exchange to the Value of 420l. … The Man who is ſuppoſed to commit this Robbery … had on a bad brown cut Wig, blue Coat, and Buttons of the ſame Colour, a printed Linen Waiſtcoat, black Leather Breeches, and his Stockings of a mottled Colour, brown and white.” (The Newcastle Weekly Courant, July 18, 1752)
  • “one printed waistcoat” (Trial of William Billet & Richard Bevas, 13th January 1764, Proceedings of the Old Bailey)
  • “Whereas Thomas Maddocks, Apprentice to William Day, of Charlton-Hare-Horne, near Sherborne, Dorſet, eloped from his Maſter’s Service the 17th July, 1764 :— Whoever harbours or employs him, ſhall be proſecuted according to Law, and whoever will give Notice to his ſaid Maſter, ſo that he may be had again, ſhall receive Half a Guinea Reward and all reaſonable Charges — He is about Sixteen Years of Age, ſhort in Stature, light ſtrait Hair; wore a Snuff-colour Coat with yellow Metal Buttons, a red and white printed Cotton lappell’d Waiſtcoat with Ivory Buttons, and dirty Leather Breeches.” (The Bath Chronicle, August 2, 1764)
  • “three gold printed waistcoat shapes … one gold printed waistcoat shape” (Trial of Luke Cannon et al., 20th February 1771, Proceedings of the Old Bailey)
  • “WILLIAM BARRELL, Hath imported in the ſhip Catherine, Capt. Young, juſt arrived from London, a very large and elegant aſſortment of European and Eaſt-India SPRING GOODS; Among which are … tobines and chintz for waiſtcoats” (The Pennsylvania Journal, April 23, 1772)
  • “three gold printed waistcoat shapes, value 18 s.” (Trial of William Siday, 29th April 1772, Proceedings of the Old Bailey)
  • “THOMAS IRWIN, in Second-ſtreet, next door to the Friends Meeting-houſe, has now on hand, and will diſpoſe of on low terms, for caſh only, the following articles, viz. A large and neat aſſortment of fine and ſuper-fine broadcloths of the following colours, blue, brown, copper, drab, light and different pieces ſuperfine white, ſuitable for uniforms and facings, Wiltons and ſagathies, Macaroni ſpotted velvets, very faſhionable, printed waiſtcoats and breeches patterns on jean and linen …” (The Pennsylvania Evening Post, May 23, 1776)
  • “TO BE SOLD, At the ſubſcriber’s, at the ſign of General Waſhington on horſeback, in Front-ſtreet, between Rice and Vine-ſtreets, Philadelphia, A FEW elegant two-coloured printed linen WAISTCOAT SHAPES; the linen is very fine, the patterns new, and the colours good. JOHN HEWSON.” (Dunlap & Claypoole’ American Daily Advertiser, May 18, 1779)
  • “STOLEN out of the ſubſcriber’s houſe in Water-ſtreet, above Race-ſtreet, on Saturday laſt, the following articles, viz. one blue broad cloth coat with metal buttons, with an anchor engraved on it; a pink coloured ſpotted cotton velvet jacket and breeches; one printed calico waiſtcoat … (The Pennsylvania Evening Post, June 3, 1780)
  • “Philadelphia, July 22. RAN-AWAY on Sunday evening laſt, an Apprentice BOY, named GEORGE BRIGHT, about 5 feet high, 17 years of age, ſhort brown hair and fairiſh complexion, was born in the weſt of England, and ſpeaks bad Engliſh: had on when he went away, an old beaver hat, a blue and white printed linen jacket, a brown and yellow printed cotton waiſtcoat, new check ſhirt, a pair of blue and white cotton ſtriped trowſers, ſeated with a piece of check the ſame as his ſhirt, and a pair of new ſhoes.” (Poulson’s American Daily Advertiser, August 2, 1783)
  • “TAKEN INTO CUSTODY, on the Eighteenth of April Inſtant, A BROAD-ſett middle-aged MAN, about Five Feet Five Inches high, marked with the Small-Pox, wants Two upper front Teeth, chews Tobacco, ahs on a red ſhort Coat, with a printed Cotton Waiſtcoat, ſays his Name is Matthew Maſon, by Trade a Wheelwright” (The Leeds INtelligencer and Yorkshire General Advertiser, April 20, 1784)
  • “BROKE OUT of DURHAM GAOL LAST NIGHT, SIMON METCALFE … He is about twenty-ſix years of age, about five feet ten inches high, brown complexion, light brown hair tied behind, combed before, he is a ſtraight well made man; had on, when he eſcaped, an olive-coloured coat, a printed velveret waiſtcoat, and a pair of black breeches, and a round hat.” (The Newcastle Weekly Courant, November 19, 1785)
  • “Kaighn and Attmore have imported in the John, Captain Huxley, from Liverpool, a freſh parcel of Mancheſter goods, conſiſting of fuſtians, jeans and jennets; printed and plain thickſetts, and velverets; honeycomb, Zebra and queen cord; ſaddle cloth Turkey ſtripes; linen, cotton, and worſted furniture checks; ſtriped ticken and bed bunts, printed waiſtcoat shapes, &c. which are for Sale at their Store in Water ſtreeet, next door above the Old Ferry Houſe, together with A General Aſſortment of European and Eaſt India Goods, as uſual; They have alſo for ſale, Burlington and Carolina pork, beſt ſaltpetred hams in caſks; tar, pitch, roſin, ſpirits of turpentine, and deer ſkins.” (Poulson’s American Daily Advertiser, Philadelphia, May 23, 1786)
  • “ESCAPED from Juſtice, on Saturday Night, the 3d of February inſtant … WILLIAM BIRD, Late of Peaſenhall in the county of Suffolk, about 26 years of age, about 5 feet 9 inches high, of a ruddy complexion, with a large ſcar on his chin, brown eyes, wore his own brown hair, and only three fingers on his left hand; had on, when he eſcaped, an olive-drab coat with metal buttons, a velveret printed waiſtcoat with metal buttons, leather breeches, and highlows; ſays he follows thatching, and was apprehended on ſuſpicion of houſe-breaking.” (The Ipswitch Journal, February 24, 1787)
  • “VAGRANTS. GEORGE GORDON, a boy about fourteen years of age, who ſaid he was a ſon of the before-mentioned James Gordon. He is of a ſlender make, black complexioned, has ſhort thick black hair, a flat noſe, gray eyes, and is ſmooth-faced, and is about five feet high. He had on a brown big coat, printed velvet waiſtcoat, and fuſtian breeches; but all his clothes were much wore.” (The Caledonian Mercury, February 25, 1788)
  • “THOMAS WALKER was indicted for stealing, on the 1st of May, a printed cotton waistcoat, value 4 s. the property of Thomas Sanders. The prisoner was seen taking the waistcoat from the prosecutor's shop door, and was taken directly with it.” (Trial of Thomas Walker, 25th June 1788, Proceedings of the Old Bailey)
  • “one printed cotton waistcoat, value 4 s.” (Trial of Ann Hannaway et al., 14th January 1789, Proceedings of the Old Bailey)
  • “NOW ON SALE … ſix dozen of printed jean waiſtcoat-pieces” (Chester Chronicle, October 15, 1790)
  • “A LARGE and valuable Aſſortment of LINEN DRAPERY GOODS; conſiſting chiefly of printed Linens, Cottons, and Callicoes; printed Linen, Cotton, Romal, Pullicat, and Bandannoe Handkerchiefs; purple and chintz Shawls; printed Waiſtcoat Shapes …” (The Times, July 18, 1791)
  • “ELOPED. JOSEPH STEWART, 18 or 19 Yeard of Age, ſtout made, black Hair, ahd on when he went away, Corderoy Coat and Breeches, and Printed Waistcoat” (The Derby Mercury, March 22, 1792)
  • “Reed is about five Feet ten Inches high, with dark long brown Hair, and is ſtrong built; had on a dark brown Coat, with round Buttons, printed Linen Waiſtcoat, and a blue Woollen Apron.—Roſſiter is about five Feet, with dark brown Hair, and a Coat nearly of the ſame Colour, with white Metal Buttons, printed Linen Waiſtcoat, and alſo blue Woollen Apron. They ſaid they were Drovers.” (Jackson’s Oxford Journal, August 25, 1792)
  • “CONVICTS ESCAPED … WILLIAM CUMING alias CUMMINGS, born at Belfaſt, in Ireland, 23 years of age, 5 feet 9 inches high, ſallow complexion, dark ſhort curled hair, light hazle eyes, viſage rather long, and large hands; by trade a Joiner; dreſs, a mixed coloured green coat, double breaſted, printed waiſtcoat, and fuſtian breeches.
    JOSEPH GARLICK, born near Oldham, in Lancaſhire, 28 years of age, 5 feet 8 inches high, light hazle eyes, ſhort ſtrong brown hair, large broad noſe, out-kneed; by trade a Fuſtian Weaver; dreſs, coat of blue mixture, printed waiſtcoat, and dark olive coloured fuſtian breeches.” (The Newcastle Weekly Courant, September 20, 1794)
  • “CALICO and IRISH LINEN SHIRTS, &c. at BARROW’s, No. 63, Houndſditch — Gentlemen intending to embark for the Eaſt or Weſt Indies, and others, ſupplied with …
    Printed Linen Waiſtcoats, with ſleeves - 0l 6s 6d to 0l 12s 0d each
    Ditto without ſleeves 0l 6s 0d to 0l 10s 0d each” (The Times, April 1, 1796)
  • “a printed kerseymere waistcoat” (Norfolk Herald, August 31, 1797)

Additionally, there are several descriptions of calico waistcoats that could have been made of printed cotton, but the word calico can mean a plain cotton or a printed textile, and I am not 100% sure that these descriptions mean to indicate a printed design on the fabric. (Here, I’m focusing on descriptions of boys and men; it’s possible that women’s jackets or shortgowns were identified as waistcoats in some of these records, as in the case of a teenage girl Jenney who “had on when she went away … a Callico Waistcoat with a large red flower” in The New-York Gazette, December 19, 1737, or a young woman named Nanny who “had on, and took with her, a calico waistcoat and petticoat” in the Virginia Gazette, July 21, 1775.)