18th Century Pin-Cloths

Last updated: March 6, 2024

A pin-cloth is a simple sort of smock for toddlers and small children. Both boys and girls in the 18th century (and early 19th century) wore pin-cloths like these to protect their clothing. Slightly older children – or children of more well-to-do families – might wear a bib and apron instead of an 18th century pincloth.

Instructions for Cutting Out Apparel for the Poor (1789) provides two sets of instructions for making a pin-cloth:

PIN-CLOTH, No 1. How cut out.
One breadth of check, three quarters of a yard, and half a quarter long, open behind. Doubled down the middle, and the back, Pattern Plate VII, Fig. 1, and the boſom, Pattern Plate VII, Fig. 2, cut out as for a bed-gown. The ſides doubled to the middle, and a ſlit cut down for the arm-hole, half a quarter and a nail long. The top of the ſhoulder ſloped from the neck to the arm-hole near half an inch. The arm-hole wears better if it is rounded a little in the back, at the bottom; and a narrow tape put within the hem at the bottom to ſtrengthen it, and prevent it from tearing down. Three quarters of a yard of tape for two ſtrings fixed at the corners of the neck behind.

PIN-CLOTH, No 2. How cut out.
The ſame as No 1, only three quarters of a yard long. Three quarters of a yard of tape for the two ſtrings; and the back and boſom not quite ſo deep.
N.B. Theſe pin-cloths are ſometimes made of thick brown Holland, or a cloth called Duck, which anſwers very well for boys.

Pincloths are also referenced in court cases in the Proceedings of the Old Bailey in 1754, 1771 (“one linen pin cloth”), 1772 (“three diaper pincloths”), 1772, 1773 (“three diaper pincloths”), 1774, 1777 (“a child’s linen pin cloth”), 1780, 1781 (“two child’s linen pincloths”), 1782, 1784, 1787, 1787 (worn by a 10-year-old girl), 1789, 1789, 1794, 1795 (“a linen pincloth”), 1796 (“a linen pincloth”), and 1798 (“a check-pincloth … a check pin-afore”). In a 1780 trial, “WILLIAM LONG was indicted for stealing a yard and a quarter of linen checque cloth,” and the prisoner testifies: “I had this piece of checque to line a trunk with. I had more than I wanted. I took a piece to rub it down with, to make it lay smooth after it is lined. I put that piece into my pocket instead of the piece of white that I intended to wash out and bring to shop again. I took it home. My wife said it would serve to make the child a pin-cloth. I said I believed there would be a fine noise if I kept it. My master sent to my wife to send it back again. She sent it back directly.”

(H/T to Juliana McKibben, Ruthann Gray Grabowski, and Paul Dickfoss)